There's more to South Africa than Cage Diving: Don't miss the sharks of Aliwal Shoal

(Photo by Mark Van Coller: www.earthphotos.co.za)

My article on Aliwal Shoal - my favorite place on earth - is running this month in Sport Diver. Initially, I was thrilled to bring some US attention to the spot and to an operator, that to me, represents exactly what you are looking for when you go shark diving. Someone who cares about the sharks, who is passionate, who is knowledgable, and who walks the talk - in this case donating, even in hard times, an incredible amount to shark conservation. When people ask me to define the perfect shark dive operators, I think of only a few special people around the world. And, Mark & Gail Addison are leaders amongst them.

(Mark ensuring we get our footage for the Remove the Nets campaign.)

I guess I naively didn't realize that everything was for sale - and instead of running the story with the ONLY operator I would EVER dive with in Aliwal, they ran it with the operator that presumably paid the most in advertising dollar. And while not stating it outright, it certainly implies this is the operator I dive with - and an operator the reader should contact. An incredible shame and lost opportunity for anyone who reads the article and doesn't do their research.

For the record - go to Aliwal. And, when you go, don't consider diving with anyone other than Blue Wilderness, and two incredibly special people that will always be some of the best friends the sharks of South Africa have. We need more people on this earth like them.

And now, the story. (I prefer the original un-edited version, of course!)

(Yes, that is three shark species in one picture at Aliwal.)

Backflipping over the approaching pack of black tips distracted by the whale shark above, I came face to face with a pair of fifteen-foot tiger sharks sneaking up on me from behind. A nightmare? Hardly. Try shark lovers’ paradise.

Those who crave the big animal experience – particularly the dorsal-finned variety – know South Africa has some of the sharkiest waters in the world. But, tragically, many stop at a cage diving experience in Cape Town, missing out on some of the best shark diving on the planet. I, however, prefer my sharks outside of cages, and it is a particular striped species I crave - which is how I first learned about Aliwal Shoal. 40 kilometres south of Durban, infamous for its tigers, Aliwal seems like a far way to go – that is until you actually get into the water. One day at Aliwal, and you will go to any length to return.

A shark diving experience can be graded on five distinct factors: activity, number of animals, size, species diversity, and interaction quality. Having dived some of the best shark spots in the world, the legendary Aliwal Shoal managed to exceed my every expectation in seconds. Grade: A+.

Slipping eagerly into the water, the sharks revealed themselves in layers, three species deep. A handful of hulking Zambezis lurking shyly at the bottom, the unmistakable presence of no less than seven gargantuan tigers gracefully gliding in the water column, and too many oceanic blacktips darting about at the surface like over-active terriers to count. My head was spinning; this was shark sensory overload.

I spent the next two hours at 15 feet completely spellbound, as the sharks took turns personally introducing themselves – each with their own distinctive flair. I got to know them all: the blacktips, full of vim and vigour, boldly approaching until they were close enough that you could feel their electric energy, the tigers with their favorite, disarming game - sneaking up only to coolly change intent as soon as they were caught in the act, and the Zambezi as distrusting as shy children until their curiosity inevitably got the best of them.

It was the kind of dive that puts you off macro diving forever. It was the kind of dive you speak of to complete strangers. And in my case, it was the kind of dive that changes your life.

Since then, Aliwal has become my passion and shameless addiction. Because Aliwal delivers some of the most extraordinary and unimaginable big animal encounters the ocean can offer. Believe it or not, a dive with 50 tiger, blacktip and zambezi sharks is just an average day.

The article the way it should have been:

The actual article is below:

Why dive with sharks?

I am still a little amazed by the reaction I get from people when I tell them what I do.

I am working to save sharks – a species facing a seemingly inevitable and closely looming extinction. As a Shark Angel and a director of Shark Savers, I raise public awareness about the issue, I educate people on the truth about sharks, and I tirelessly fight for their protection and against those that are destroying them.

But what seems to be of most interest - though completely happenstance to me - and what I love most… I dive with sharks.

Yes. I dive with sharks. Quite often. All over the world with all types of sharks including those most feared – great whites, tigers, bulls and hammerheads. And I do this up close and personal - outside of the “safety” of cages.

The responses I get range from disbelief, shock and awe, instant respect, or an immediate proclamation that I am insane.

But I don’t do it to surprise or impress people. I am not crazy nor am I seeking an amped-up adrenaline rush. And I don’t have some sort of death wish…

Why do I dive with sharks? I dive with sharks to save them.

The "fiercest" predator on the planet desperately needs our help. Desired for their fins, over 100,000,000 sharks are killed each year, and 90% of many shark species are almost extinct. Recent studies indicate that the great sharks, the tigers, the greater hammerheads, and the bull sharks, are 98% extinct from the North Atlantic waters.

Sadly, the public’s interest in sharks seems inexhaustible. An interest in the macabre – not the grim reality the sharks’ now face. The media feeds on our fears and provides us with embellished stories of vicious attacks by mindless man-eating monsters. The reality is quite different. There are very few shark attacks worldwide. Last year only one person died from a shark attack. In contrast, and what we don’t hear, is that sharks are the most hunted animal on the planet.

Even if you don’t have a passion for sharks like I do, they are still critically important to the planet, and we should all care very much about their conservation. As an apex predator, they are vital to the health oceans, the most important ecosystem on the planet – providing a major source of our oxygen and food. The oceans are kept in balance by sharks, who at the top of the food chain, regulate this ecosystem. The oceans - our very life support systems - are being destroyed.

Why are we brutally killing so many sharks? Primarily for sharkfin soup. A status symbol in many Asian countries. And soup consumption is on the rise.

So I dive with sharks to shift people’s perspectives on a mal-aligned and often despised species. To challenge our collective misconceptions. To bring awareness to an issue few know much about. To help ensure the sharks’ survival.

I have logged hundreds of dives and have spent countless hours underwater with sharks. But before you are impressed, know it is not as glamorously dangerous as it seems.

While there is inherent risk in all that we do, the risk of injury - let alone death - while diving with sharks is incredibly low. This year marks the first reported death from a shark bite on record during an organized shark dive. In comparison, many common leisure activities such as biking, swimming, and boating are statistically far more dangerous than diving with sharks.

In my own personal experiences diving with sharks, both with and without bait in the water, the sharks have gone out of their way to avoid contact with humans. Sharks clearly do not see people as prey, and even with bait in the water, I have never seen a shark exhibit aggressive behavior towards me. We are simply not on their menu.

As a responsible shark conservationist, I do realize these are wild animals and that there is some risk involved when I step into their habitat. With proper safety protocols, experience, and training, this infinitesimal risk is small when compared to the reward: the chance to experience an intimate encounter with one of the greatest species on our earth. And more importantly, share these encounters with others.

These interactions are captured on film, as part of the Shark Angels project, to enable others to develop a healthy respect and even compassion for this seriously misunderstood animal. So those people who do not dive with sharks can get a new perspective – counter to Jaws, counter to Shark Week.

And, as we continue to deplete populations and chase sharks to the brink of extinction, it is more important than ever to encourage people to care about sharks and gain an appreciation for their true character.

We tend to protect the things we understand, and sharks are largely out of sight, out of mind for us. Allowing others to live vicariously through the Shark Angels' experiences, I hope will be a powerful conservation tool to protect them. When you come virtually face to fin with the “world’s most dangerous sharks”, I believe you will realize as I have, that sharks aren’t the enemies - the only thing we have to fear is ourselves.

Our collective irrational fear of sharks entirely based upon myths and misconceptions, I think, explains our lack of desire to conserve them. Through awareness and understanding, I am on a personal mission to change all that. And of course spend as much time as I can in the water surrounded by the creatures for whom I have an incredible respect, interest and passion.

I hope that what the Angels (and I) do will shift your perspective – and you will want to save sharks too. But act quickly, because sadly, they are almost gone from this planet and soon, no one will be able to experience their magnificence.

(Photos by Jim Abernethy, Roger Horrocks, Jeff Rotman and Eric Cheng.)

I barely escaped alive...

(Photo by Jim Abernethy.)

I had a terrifying experience today. I was stalked, terrorized and even had to fight off a vicious attack. My heart raced as I narrowly escaped the predator – barely making it away unscathed. Others, I knew, hadn’t been so lucky.

I spent the day diving with sharks. Caribbean Reef Sharks to be exact.

But it wasn’t while I found myself surrounded a dozen sharks quickly darting around me from all directions coming close enough to brush my fins. Hardly. Sharks are not viciously cunning, nor do they prey on humans.

No, after being in the water with what are considered “man-eaters”, I found myself scared of a bird.

Not just any bird – a parrot named Zoe Bird. A mean parrot who has a chip on her shoulders – and just plain doesn’t like anyone other than her Dad. Upon entering the empty house of my host, Jim’s voice rung out in my ears “If Zoe Bird let herself out of the cage, DO NOT go in. She will attack you.” Much to my dismay, not only had she slyly let herself out of the cage (and barely left the door open, tricking me into believing she was still in the cage), she was quietly awaiting my arrival in the guest bedroom.

Squaking, feathers flying and lunging at me with a very, very sharp beak, I was driven from the house in a panic, happy to have gotten outside without Zoe Bird drawing any blood.

Funny. Most people would think diving with sharks is the dangerous situation. In fact, house pets are far more threatening.


(Photo by Jim Abernethy.)

Becomming a Shark Angel

So, everyone always wants to know... why sharks?

I grew up in the water… I was the kid who was always swimming in a lake, river or stream, eagerly peering to the bottom to have a chance encounter with some sort of marine life! I would catch guppies and put them in jars as my pets, obsessed with all things aquatic. I come from a long line of "mermaids" – some of my favorite childhood memories revolve around my grandfather and father spending an afternoon swimming in the lake near our house.

And, I have been obsessed with sharks since I was a kid. They have always held a sense of magic for me. When I started diving, I remember the thrill of my first Black Tip Reef shark sighting. A dive wasn't a success unless I saw at least one shark! I have such an amazing appreciation and admiration for sharks, and I learned very, very early on that they were far more afraid of me than I was of them. Shark sightings were something to be cherished – not dreaded.

I have been diving with the Hammerheads in Cocos, the Black Tips in Fiji, the Leopards in Thailand, the Tigers in the Bahamas, the Whites in South Africa and the Silver Tips in Tahiti. And in that time, I have sadly witnessed my cherished creatures disappear.

When I think about what is going on with sharks, I want to scream and run through the streets shaking everyone and telling them that we are letting one of our most precious resources slip through our fingertips. Such majestic, beautiful creatures don't deserve to be slaughtered – especially for a pathetic, social climbing soup. And, their role in our most important ecosystem is of the utmost importance. The oceans' supply much of the food we eat and air we breathe. Sharks sit atop of that food chain and keep our oceans, our very life support systems, healthy. What would our world be like without sharks? I for one do not want to find out.

I have been a passionate and long time shark activist - and about a year and a half ago, realized that I had to do more. I came together with a group of five other people after organizing a campaign to Ban Sharkfin Soup in New York City. As divers, lovers of the environment, and admirers of the ocean, we had personally witnessed the devastation of everything we hold sacred – including our precious sharks. And, when we wanted to do something, we realized that it wasn't as easy as it should be. Learning about sharks, educating others, developing tools to build awareness and choosing the right things to focus on in order to make a difference were all cumbersome and challenging. And, there was no clear, globalized movement to join. We thought there should be. And thus, Shark Savers was born. I am now the Director of Strategy & Outreach for Shark Savers. Much of what I do involves using my marketing and PR skills towards a positive image campaign for sharks while speaking on their behalf at events, schools, and even charitable events. I also do a considerable amount of education and of course, development.

Realizing the importance media plays in influencing our collective mindset, I have also become heavily involved in productions that involve sharks - in a positive light. A year ago, I began spearheading marketing and PR initiatives for the movie, Sharkwater. I worked closely with Rob Stewart to roll the movie out here in the states, build awareness and garner support – as Sharkwater is one of the best conservation tools we have. I now work in marketing & development in a broader role for the production company as well.

And, six months ago, I still wanted to do more. After meeting Kim McCoy from Sea Shepherd and Alison Kock from Save Our Seas, Shark Angels was born. Shark Angels is a movement that is being kicked off by a documentary about three female shark conservationists, a scientist, an activist, and an enforcer, partnering together to show people the truth about sharks – that they are not ruthless maneaters, but instead magnificent creatures to be protected – and cherished. In the production, I played the role of writer, co-producer, and of course, Shark Angel. The documentary is in post-production and is set to launch in the Summer of 2008. More than anything else, we want to unite the public around a new view of sharks – and bring attention to their plight.

I am motivated at the core by a passion to save sharks - and try to stay away from the drama and politics that sometimes surrounds that. I truly believe that there is so much strength in working together - and if we can't come together, strengthen our approach, and work together to combat this madness, we could lose our sharks, and soon after that, our oceans. I desperately want everyone to be aware of this situation – to join the fight. I have now essentially committed my every waking moment of passion to efforts that fuel that goal… I have no idea how this will manifest itself, but I have finally decided to follow my passion, in the hopes that great things will happen and I may save a few sharks...