There's more to South Africa than Cage Diving: Don't miss the sharks of Aliwal Shoal

(Photo by Mark Van Coller: www.earthphotos.co.za)

My article on Aliwal Shoal - my favorite place on earth - is running this month in Sport Diver. Initially, I was thrilled to bring some US attention to the spot and to an operator, that to me, represents exactly what you are looking for when you go shark diving. Someone who cares about the sharks, who is passionate, who is knowledgable, and who walks the talk - in this case donating, even in hard times, an incredible amount to shark conservation. When people ask me to define the perfect shark dive operators, I think of only a few special people around the world. And, Mark & Gail Addison are leaders amongst them.

(Mark ensuring we get our footage for the Remove the Nets campaign.)

I guess I naively didn't realize that everything was for sale - and instead of running the story with the ONLY operator I would EVER dive with in Aliwal, they ran it with the operator that presumably paid the most in advertising dollar. And while not stating it outright, it certainly implies this is the operator I dive with - and an operator the reader should contact. An incredible shame and lost opportunity for anyone who reads the article and doesn't do their research.

For the record - go to Aliwal. And, when you go, don't consider diving with anyone other than Blue Wilderness, and two incredibly special people that will always be some of the best friends the sharks of South Africa have. We need more people on this earth like them.

And now, the story. (I prefer the original un-edited version, of course!)

(Yes, that is three shark species in one picture at Aliwal.)

Backflipping over the approaching pack of black tips distracted by the whale shark above, I came face to face with a pair of fifteen-foot tiger sharks sneaking up on me from behind. A nightmare? Hardly. Try shark lovers’ paradise.

Those who crave the big animal experience – particularly the dorsal-finned variety – know South Africa has some of the sharkiest waters in the world. But, tragically, many stop at a cage diving experience in Cape Town, missing out on some of the best shark diving on the planet. I, however, prefer my sharks outside of cages, and it is a particular striped species I crave - which is how I first learned about Aliwal Shoal. 40 kilometres south of Durban, infamous for its tigers, Aliwal seems like a far way to go – that is until you actually get into the water. One day at Aliwal, and you will go to any length to return.

A shark diving experience can be graded on five distinct factors: activity, number of animals, size, species diversity, and interaction quality. Having dived some of the best shark spots in the world, the legendary Aliwal Shoal managed to exceed my every expectation in seconds. Grade: A+.

Slipping eagerly into the water, the sharks revealed themselves in layers, three species deep. A handful of hulking Zambezis lurking shyly at the bottom, the unmistakable presence of no less than seven gargantuan tigers gracefully gliding in the water column, and too many oceanic blacktips darting about at the surface like over-active terriers to count. My head was spinning; this was shark sensory overload.

I spent the next two hours at 15 feet completely spellbound, as the sharks took turns personally introducing themselves – each with their own distinctive flair. I got to know them all: the blacktips, full of vim and vigour, boldly approaching until they were close enough that you could feel their electric energy, the tigers with their favorite, disarming game - sneaking up only to coolly change intent as soon as they were caught in the act, and the Zambezi as distrusting as shy children until their curiosity inevitably got the best of them.

It was the kind of dive that puts you off macro diving forever. It was the kind of dive you speak of to complete strangers. And in my case, it was the kind of dive that changes your life.

Since then, Aliwal has become my passion and shameless addiction. Because Aliwal delivers some of the most extraordinary and unimaginable big animal encounters the ocean can offer. Believe it or not, a dive with 50 tiger, blacktip and zambezi sharks is just an average day.

The article the way it should have been:

The actual article is below:

Scoring a Try for Sharks

(Julie with The Crusaders post-dive. Photo by Mark Addison.)

A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to accompany a very special team of individuals when they encountered sharks for the first time. And, the results similar to so many before them, for this shark conservationist, were inspiring. And reminded me again why this fight is so worth fighting.

While still in Durban last week, I joined New Zealand’s Rugby team, the Crusaders, many of whom are also All Blacks, on their first dive with the sharks of Shark Park. I have got to hand it to the guys – they endured some of the worst conditions I have ever dove in. The seas were so rough that it took almost 20 minutes to launch! And after a harrowing ride out to the dive site, all of the big, tough guys were looking, well not so tough and rather green – and not just because they were a bit nervous.

But, they jumped in and in a heartbeat, shifted their perspectives. Entering into a sea of blacktips, they eagerly pointed them out to one another as they swam amongst them. It wasn’t long before our first tiger, a girl I call Smiley in memory of my brother’s adopted greyhound who also had a permanent grin on her face, showed up. In true Smiley form, she swam towards us on the surface, quite inquisitive and quite close. Between her unnerving grin delivered what some might call way too close for comfort, and the brutal seas which resulted in everyone hurling including myself, it was a day not to be forgotten!

(Bronson swims with his new-found friend Smiley. Photo by Mark Addison.)

When we got back to Blue Wilderness, the guys were incredibly charged up and quite passionate about their experience, embarrassed that perhaps they too had once fallen for the “Jaws” myth. But when it came time to do my ten minute conservation briefing that I do at the end of most dives, as part of the diving conservation program we are rolling out, I figured there was no way I would keep these superstars’ attentions. Especially because lunch had been served.

But, just as Smiley’s behavior had startled them, theirs’ completely floored me. They stopped and gave me their full attention, hung on every word, asked dozens of educated questions and on that afternoon, became passionate shark conservationists.

After the presentation, Paul and I interviewed them on camera for a piece that was being aired here in South Africa and I couldn’t have been prouder of their genuine and educated perspective. Rugby player after rugby player recanted the sadness they felt with the realization that sharks are misunderstood and how tragic it is that it is that irrational fear, in some ways, leading to their demise. And each declared how they were personally going to change that. In fact, we are now working together with Blue Wilderness and the Crusaders to put together a powerful viral video on the experience that carries a strong conservation message that will be posted, amongst other places on their website.

It isn’t because they are famous, or heros to a whole legion of fans, that I was delighted to be in their presence. I am not the type to get star-struck and personally, given my complete American-based ignorance to the sport, that fame is wasted on me. But, the fact that they have decided to use that fame and reach people that most of us never could is why the Crusaders are now my heros too.

(The original Smiley. The similarities are haunting, no?)

More Tigers Killed... By Fear

There is blood on my hands again. And this time, it is thanks to an archaic, culling technique called Shark Nets.

In this day and age, with all we know about sharks – including their dwindling numbers, their critical role in our ecosystem, their behavior, and the infinitesimal risk they pose to us – it is absolutely appalling that shark nets exist. Shark Nets are a crime against our oceans and our sharks, and they absolutely must be removed.

We spend our lives fighting to save sharks and their thoughtless and purposeless deaths are incredibly disheartening – especially in a country known for shark conservation. In the last month, I know of and have been witness in some cases to 10 such deaths – all tiger sharks – here in Aliwal Shoal, South Africa.


It was the last death that spurred me into desperate action, as I simply couldn’t sit by anymore and watch as our precious Tiger Sharks were being pulled in one by one, day after day, strangled to death. While the team on the ground here (a powerful group of passionate advocates that will remain nameless at this point) had already launched an anti-net campaign, I was, at this point, busy staying in the background and gathering intelligence – interviewing fisherman and dive operators, swimming the nets daily, even visiting Natal Sharks Board headquarters. Already, I knew enough to make my stomach turn – but little did I know, it would get much worse.

The day prior, I had received information that two Tigers – both almost 3 meters – had been caught and killed in the Nets and the death toll was at 8. Since I have been diving in Aliwal for two months and had only seen a single Tiger Shark, my blood boiled to think the nets had killed 800% more sharks than I had seen in that same period. My informant also saw Natal Sharks Board intentionally hide the Tiger Sharks underneath life vests on their boat hoping to avoid any further bad press.


You see, Natal Sharks Board has to hide the truth of the nets, keeping the deaths away from public eye to ensure that popular opinion supporting the nets won’t sway when people witness the true, grisly outcome of the nets - dead dolphins, turtles, and sharks that hardly seem threatening. Just pathetically sad and heart wrenching. Not the stuff our nightmares are made of, the deeply seeded fear Natal Sharks Board draws upon to justify their existence.


They are so desperate to keep their nasty secret, Natal Sharks Board operates in the shadows, removing their kill early in the morning before anyone can see and hiding victims on their boats far from prying eyes, quickly whisking the casualties away to headquarters. Worse, they even abandon their dead catch at sea – to avoid having to report the growing death toll. – only days prior a dead, 3 meter tiger shark with gill net wounds had been found by a fisherman on the Shoal after another fisherman witnessed a large object being thrown from a Sharks’ Board boat. The Sharks’ Board deceit is not without reason – as I am quite certain if the casual observer began learning about all of the destruction in an already fragile environment, Natal Sharks Board would lose ground fast.

And we were about to prove that, firsthand, when I received a call that another Tiger Shark was trapped in the Nets. I raced to the beach hoping to get out there and rescue the shark. By the time I arrived, another passionate shark lover and team member, Steve Benjamin, had attempted to rescue the shark by cutting her out of the net, but she was already dead. He also had called Sharks Board as is the protocol– who arrived at the same time I did. However, the Sharks Board boat refused to take the shark onto their boat regardless of protocol or constant pleas from Steve to take the Shark. Steve, confused, was not going to leave the shark at sea, so he told me to get ready - he had to bring the shark ashore then re-launch to return to work. Steve is a skipper for Blue Wilderness, run by Mark and Gail Addison – some of the best friends the sharks of South Africa have.

Paul grabbed his camera, as I raced down to the beach to help Steve land. As soon as he approached I saw the two-meter beautiful Tiger Shark lying stiffly on the side of the boat and the anger welled up inside me. Here was a shark no older than a year or two killed by ignorance at a time when her population was already greatly threatened.


Waves broke over me as I tried to wrestle the shark to the beach while holding back the tears welling up inside. I couldn’t help but recall my days at Tiger Beach surrounded by Begonia and Mini-T – sharks just like her. Her rough, lifeless skin scraped my arms and legs raw as I strained to keep her from floating out to sea. No one would help me. While she was a small tiger, she was still quite heavy and I battled to dig my feet deep into the sand with the pouring rain only complicating matters. Mother Nature was weeping no doubt. Finally, another kind Blue Wilderness team member showed up, and together, with a winch, we dragged the shark to higher ground.


There she lay on the sand, a perfect Tiger Shark specimen, her eyes sunken, blood running from her orifices. My fingers traced the tell-tale marks seared into her head – gill nets had strangled her and suffocated to death. Opening her mouth, I saw her small teeth were no bigger than my fingernails and I knew she was too young to have learned the avoidance techniques many older sharks have learned. Ironically, over 40% of sharks are caught on the reverse sides of the nets meaning they have avoided them on the way in, as the nets are not truly effective barriers. And, many of the sharks caught are juveniles – barely old enough to be a threat to squid, let alone bathers on the beach.

Why had another shark been killed here?

I spun around and saw, as I usually do, only the occasional fisherman, person walking on the beach or boater. This area was a launch site for boaters and dive operators – and not a beach that swimmers and bathers used. Yet a net was installed here anyway, keeping the sand and driftwood safe, I suppose.

I spent the next hour fighting with the Sharks Board as I begged for them to take their shark. The shark they killed. They refused. Someone at headquarters had unwittingly instructed them not to touch the shark – though this public display was the exact thing they try and avoid. Seizing the opportunity, I began educating the large crowd that formed about tiger sharks, the nets, and how this the poor little shark had died. As soon as beach goers happened upon the beautiful shark, there was disgust, outrage, frustration and sadness. Never fear. This was the first time they were able to see the results of the nets – seemingly sterile and non-threatening, or so the Sharks Board would have you believe. And instantly, each reached a common consensus: the nets must go. Only one lone fisherman opposed, screaming that this was my fault (many people, and typically fisherman, ignorantly accuse shark divers of killing sharks by interacting with them with bait and thus, making them more apt to attack people) and that the beach needed protection from me and these sharks. “When was the last shark attack on this beach?” I screamed back, furious. He could answer because to date, and well before the nets, there have been NO shark attacks here. Not a single one – bait or no bait.


It wasn’t until the other fisherman arrived, landing their boats after a day at sea that my sadness and anger turned to desperation. They marched up to the shark and started coldly inspecting her fins and jaws – kicking her belly. I knew what they were going to do and I started yelling “You are not taking this shark. Not her fins and not her jaws. You will not touch her.” There were many of them and I began fearing the worst. This magnificent creature was ruthlessly murdered, Sharks Board refused to take any responsibility, and now, the opportunistic fisherman were going to cut her up to take her valuable fins and jaws. “Are you really going to let them do this? The blood is on your conscious.” I screamed at the Sharks Board crew while trying to drag her to safety and fend off the fisherman.

Someone at headquarters finally wised up and realized that what was happening was not doing them any favors and gave the order to remove the shark – just in time. This was the first time they had experienced such a blatant display of anti-nets sentiment to my knowledge, and it took a foreigner and a some passionate, and bold folks from a Tiger Shark dive operation, Blue Wilderness, to do it. This was long overdue – and it was time for someone to stand up against the nets in a real way.

Ironically, I was later informed that the rumors were flying : not only had I reportedly killed the shark to get publicity but that I was also under investigation by Marine Coastal Management for killing a protected animal. And, that I (not to mention the whole team) have been labeled as a vigilante and I better watch my back.

The politics of sharks in South Africa are completely disheartening – nor will I I fall victim to fear mongering and intimidation. Sadly, many of the rumors originated from individuals who are supposed to care about sharks. I guess they care more about getting into the limelight and feeding their egos than making sure no more sharks are killed.

But, we are above politics and care about one thing. So best find a new source of income, Natal Sharks Board, because the people of South Africa and the world are going to choose live sharks over dead ones.

Running with the Big Animals

I have been all over the world diving with some of the most incredible animals on the planet. But today, I had the best diving experience I have ever had. Without any tanks. Which is the exact reason why it was so special.

Having just completed my freediving lessons, I was eager to try out my new skills. Somehow Mother Nature knew and delivered the perfect day which was all the encouragement Mark needed to get us out on the ocean.

Our goal? Swim with whatever the sea offered.


First up, a group of friendly Common Bottlenose dolphins – many with calves so young, it looked like they had just been born within the past few weeks. Time and time again, we dropped off the boat and dove down into their world, with the freedom to enter it for as long as our lungs would allow. The dolphins proudly showed us their new additions as they playfully dove between us.

Then, we met the sharks. Our first stop? The Raggies’ hood to see how the youngsters were doing finding mates. Free-diving to Raggies Cave was peaceful and easy though only days earlier it had required me to strap a heavy cylinder on my back. And the Ragged Tooth Sharks – a particularly skittish bunch – never let air guzzlers get too close. However, without the noise and disruption of tanks, the Raggies were quite hospitable and hung out closely to us. Being on their terms made them comfortable enough to share their personal space and I got the opportunity to get in tight with my new friends.

Next up was the Blacktip pack who just admitted several new members to their club: the Dusky sharks. The blacktips were so close that I frequently bumped into them while ascending or descending – much to their dismay. But it was the Duskies that I found absolutely enchanting. They are the type of sharks that stay in the outskirts of a crowd, never confident enough to check you out eye to eye. With your back turned, they would slowly enter your private space lurking over one of your shoulders only to dart away as soon as you turned and locked your eyes with theirs. However, on this particular day without any tank, I met a very different shark. These duskies were fearless and quite curious. They would circle me a few times slowly decreasing the radius of their circles until finally, they would swim right up to my nose, stop a few inches from my face and hang there until we were able to mentally connect and exchange salutations.



I was already high with excitement as we started to head back into shore. Little did I know the days’ highlight was still in store for me.

This time of year, the humpbacks come through Aliwal, on their way down from Mozambique after giving birth to take their calves to Antarctica with them. They pick up an escort here to make the long journey with them and in return for protection, the escort is given the chance to mate with the indebted female. The whales had been thick the last several days, but on a mission, so it is difficult to get a chance to enjoy anything more than a slap of the tail and an occasional breach.

I figured today was no different, so when Mark cried whale, I dove into the water assuming I might see a quick flash of a white belly. It was a hectic mad dash in the water as Mark kept yelling directions to us. As I lifted my head, I could see a pod of whales just beyond my reach and at some point, decided I was never going to catch them. That is when Mark enthusiastically shouted for me to dive – the whales were headed straight towards me.

Forgetting everything I was taught, I dove down and peered into the blue. Suddenly two whales materialized just a few meters in front of me. As I swam forward, a third whale entered my peripheral vision and I realized this was mom and a calf. It was an absolutely gorgeous sight – a mother humpback and her baby peacefully gliding past me. Knowing the mother would be nervous if I was too close, I stood my ground and just enjoyed from a distance. My heart stopped as I experienced an encounter I had only dreamed of. I could have never imagined this was possible. A whale shark, maybe. A whale? No way.


I must have glanced down to get my bearings because as I looked up, I found myself literally inches away from a huge eye and barnacles. Imagine my surprise to realize that I was about to bump head first into a humpback whale. I had not seen the escort and suddenly, he was right next to me letting me know that I could look but not touch. I immediately realized I was way too close to such a powerful creature and began backing up as quickly as I could remembering the stories I had heard about their powerful fins. By the time the whale’s pectoral fin came near me, I was far enough away to be out of danger, but close enough to get a strong, warning swipe across my fin. Wishing I could have shared the moment with someone, I turned to find Paul had materialized behind me, catching the swipe on camera. (Not that I needed it… the experience itself was seared into my mind. I will never forget it for as long as I live.)


Jubilant, I broke the surface and basked in the spectacular glory of the sea with Paul. Freediving that day, combined with Mother Nature, just gave me the most amazing gift I will ever receive.

I may never put a tank on again…

Spotting Sharks Through the Mess of Nets and Drumlines

I was absolutely gutted to hear from my dear friends Mark and Gail Addison that three tiger sharks were caught and killed in the nets off the coast of Aliwal Shoal. I spend my life fighting to save these creatures and their thoughtless and completely purposeless deaths are incredibly disheartening – especially in a country known for shark conservation.

South Africa is a country of extremes. While they have led the world in the protection of white sharks and it is illegal to harm a white shark, they also allow white sharks to be killed every year under the guise that it is required for the safety of its water users. The same is true for Tiger sharks who are a significantly threatened species and are even protected in Aliwal. And while South Africa has one coast protected by barbaric shark nets and drumlines (whose sole purpose is to kill sharks), they have also pioneered a program on another coast that allows sharks and people to peacefully coexist – in the exact same water.

News of dead sharks never comes at a good time, but coincidentally, this news was delivered as I was finishing my latest report for the Underwater Channel – exploring how people and sharks (in this case white sharks) can, and should, share the exact same water.

You see, while whites and tiger sharks are seriously threatened and are protected by many countries, including South Africa, many of these sharks are still killed each year by shark nets and drumlines.

What are shark nets?



Throughout the Eastern Coast of South Africa shark nets and drumlines are installed by Natal Sharks Board. Natal Sharks Board actually has a fishing license, and the purpose of these nets and drumlines are to kill sharks. Years ago, the nets were installed to appease beach users, who were panicked by a string of incidents on the beaches of Durban. Tourism was big money for the folks of KZN, and many lobbied to install nets to keep the sharks away from the beaches to keep the tourists happy. Surely the private organization installing the nets lobbied the hardest. And, ironically, most of these incidents were occurring where whaling stations were located as well (Hmm… dead whales near where people swim. Um, can we really blame the sharks?)

Until I saw them, like most people I think, I assumed shark nets were much like underwater mosquito nets, creating a harmless, and far-reaching barrier between the beach users and the sharks. This could not be further from the truth.

Shark nets are gill nets installed in tiered patterns – not fully extending to either the top or the bottom, and not fully enclosing the beach areas. While tiered, their installation often times seems quite random – and certainly does not enclose a beach. Many sharks are caught on the reverse side of the nets, meaning they have avoided them on the way in. Most are smaller sharks – as the larger ones have learned to avoid the nets. These smaller sharks don’t pose any risk at all – as they are not large enough to consume large fish, let alone humans (as if we were even on their menus.) And, the sharks that are caught tend to be those that are desperately threatened. Not incredibly effective, right?

You have got to hand it to the sharks who avoid the nets… When I swam next to the nets, it was only a few minutes before I managed to get completely entangled. Thankfully I had help nearby, but for a few desperate moments, I understood what it would be like to drown like a panicked shark, snarled in a mess of suffocating netting. I wouldn’t wish that on my worst enemy.

For years, Natal Sharks Boards also finned the sharks they caught, turning a profit while keeping the beaches “safe”. Makes you wonder what the motivations truly are… To date, no one I have spoken to has confirmed this no longer occurs. Believe it or not, you can still attend weekly dissections of sharks – an attempt to show the public their work contributes to science and conservation. And indeed, many leading shark scientists in South Africa reportedly work for Natal Sharks Board.

As if killing the sharks weren’t enough, these nets catch a significant amount of bycatch. Dolphins, turtles, and even baby whales have been caught and killed by these nets. What’s the solution? Well, in Australia … Drumlines. Baited hooks complete with tasty tuna heads sure to draw the attention of the supposedly blood-thirsty and human hunting sharks, right? Sadly, the first part is true and the sharks are often drawn into the bait to meet their untimely and brutal end.

Now Natal Sharks Board has installed drumlines similar to those installed in Australia. These drumlines are targeting even more sharks – particularly protected species, like the White Sharks. And, they are resulting in more shark deaths. One may also wonder why you would attract sharks to the beaches with tuna heads. Yes, it seems odd… Rather than let them be than attract the sharks INTO the beaches with people swimming nearby, no?


In all the madness, there is a solution. A solution called “Shark Spotters”, an NGO that has been operating successfully in Capetown for several years.

Amazingly, in Capetown, THERE ARE NO NETS and NO DRUMLINES! Yes, there is a viable alternative to nets – without killing a single endangered animal. False Bay on the Western Cape of South Africa, is the largest bay in Southern Africa. And, we all know, thanks to several Seal Island/Shark Week episodes (as well as thanks to scientists like Shark Angel Alison) that the white sharks are present in strong numbers. But not only does this bay have one of the highest concentrations of white sharks in the world, it also has the highest concentration of water users.


Shark Spotters is an ingenious program that allows the white sharks and the water users to live in peaceful coexistence – without harm to anyone, including the sharks. Shark Spotters was actually started by a local surfer and shop owner, who wanted to increase the local surf traffic here at Muizenberg beach. These days it is run as a non-profit with sponsorship from many organizations including surf manufacturers, local groups, and international NGOs. And, Shark Angel Alison has just been appointed as the Director of Research for Shark Spotters.

Throughout the Western Cape, Shark Spotters sit high atop the hills flanking the beaches armed with binoculars and radios. Everything they need to “do battle” with the sharks. All day long, the Shark Spotters watch the shoreline looking for white sharks – who are known to frequent the inshore waters especially in the summer time.

When a shark is spotted, which is relatively easy to do given their size and their proximity to the surface, the Shark Spotter in the booth on the hill notifies the Shark Spotter on the beach. Then, the beach Shark Spotter sounds an alarm announcing the shark’s presence and also hoists a black flag with a white shark on it.

It is astounding to see the surfers and swimmers, quite accustomed to the alarms and the sharks, non-chalantly exit the water and await the “all clear” sign. No panic or pandemonium. Just a patient acknowledgement it is us human beings that the sharks are generously sharing their environment with, not the other way around.

Although I dive with them, I decided to put my money where my mouth is, prove I believe in alternatives to Nets and Drumlines, and learn to surf in the same spot that the white sharks are known to patrol. Yes, I often choose to surf in the waters that the white sharks hunt in. And never once have I felt threatened – without the existence of nets or drumlines. The only thing I am worried about is the temperature of the water – a FREEZING ten degrees celcius!

When it comes to sharks, the media feeds the frenzy, convincing the public they need to demand things like nets and drumlines to protect themselves. Not true. Just look at the statistics. During the past 47years, there have been a total of 4 deaths on the Western Cape attributed to White Sharks. That is one person every 12 years. Compare that to the 49 people that died last year due to lightening strikes, the 79 people that died due to hunting accidents and the 20 people that died due to dog bites. Seems like we ought be putting our energy into protecting ourselves from hunters, dogs and lightening – not killing sharks.

I am not by any means claiming to be an expert. Nor would I simply suggest the Capetown model would work in other places, with different types of sharks and topography. But, what I know is that there ARE viable alternatives to shark nets and drumlines and that we cannot keep unnecessarily destroying the very animals that keep our oceans – and us – healthy.


Many people, due to their irrational fears of sharks, think the world would be a better place without them. Sadly, that could not be further from the truth. Sharks sit a top the food chain, keeping our oceans healthy. Removing them would cause severe knock-on effects and would jeopardize our world’s largest and most important ecosystem – an ecosystem that gives us much of the air we breathe and food we eat.

The population of sharks around the world is plummeting, and their outlook is significantly threatened – particularly those targeted by the nets, including Tigers, Bulls and Whites.

Learning how to live with sharks and share THEIR home is so critical to their long-term existence. There is no reason to kill sharks under the guise that it is for our own good – or our own safety.

Instead of fearing these creatures, we should develop a healthy respect and manage the infinitesimal risk getting into the same water with these sharks is – through education, awareness and programs like the Shark Spotters. We cannot afford to kill one more shark unnecessarily – our long term existence depends on them.

Look Ma, No Tanks!

And… I am loving it!

Last year, I had the opportunity to meet Hanli Prinsloo – world class and champion freediver when I was diving with the white sharks. Watching her in the water made me realize she is true to her word. She really IS water. So graceful and free underwater on a single breath of air.


A few days later I did a photo shoot with Roger Horrocks freediving with tiger sharks. And while I managed, I certainly didn’t meet my own high expectations of my first freediving experience: to glide elegantly deep under the surface as seconds melt away into minutes. I found myself wishing I could dive deeper, stay down longer and improve my confidence without a nearby air source. But, I loved the freedom that not having a tank on my back allowed me to have.

And, I was even more enthralled to be able to experience the animals in a way I had never experienced before. It was like for the first time, I had truly entered their world. The sharks and I were interacting as if we were equals. Instead of swimming nervously away from me, or keeping their leery distance, they came right up to me immediately – even the tigers – to greet me. Without noisy tanks between us, I felt like I was accepted as one of them, and we were able to swim next to one another free of the barrier of fear that has kept us from truly connecting in the past (theirs of course.)



I became quickly addicted to the benefits of freediving and spent the next several days free of the confines dive gear imposes – one with the tigers. And, with the encouragement of my freediving buddy, the infamous Wolfgang Leander, a man who loves sharks almost as much as he loves freediving, I was hooked.


It was then I decided to become a shark. The first step? Ensuring I could enter their world on their terms. So, it was then I vowed to become a freediver.

I returned to the states and immediately ordered my gear and signed up for Hanli’s next class, in September in Aliwal run by my friends at Blue Wilderness, and their program "I am shark."

Finally the time had come. In two days, Hanli taught me more than I could have ever imagined about the sport of freediving, gave me the confidence and tools I needed to “live” underwater, and most importantly, reminded me of the strength we all have within to achieve everything we put our mind to – as long as we can harness it.

I learned breathholding techniques, proper eating pre and post diving, pre-diving yoga, how to breathe up, “stuffing” air into all my cavities, relaxation, the power of the mind, working through physical limitations and urges, and perserverence. I shocked myself to find that I can hold my breath for almost three minutes and on my first day of diving in the oceans, I dove to almost 60 feet with ease to pause at the bottom and listen to the whales sing. Not bad for a tank guzzler, huh Wolfie?

Hanli was an incredible teacher and I was totally hooked on freediving. It gives me confidence, freedom and an even, cenetered deameanor but more importantly, it gives me a window into the shark’s world.

Surfers meet a Shark Angel... And Sharks!

(Video of the experience at the bottom of the blog.)

I think I have finally found something I like better than diving with sharks. Sharing that experience with others – especially those who are, shall we say, not yet enlightened, deeply rooted in that fear and misconception culture that surrounds sharks. And Saturday, I had the amazing opportunity to do just that. With a group of folks that are infamous shark haters... Surfers.

(Not only did these influential surfers take on their fears, they got the story in the Sunday edition of The Times today - Southern Africa's major newspaper read by 5 million people... http://www.thetimes.co.za/PrintEdition/Lifestyle/Article.aspx?id=839724 and in the Cape Argus - the Sunday edition of the major Capetown paper: http://www.capeargus.co.za/index.php?fArticleId=4551096.)

At the Shark Angels screening at the Durban IFC/Wavescapes film festival, I met some very charismatic and famous US and South African Surfers including Ross Frylink, Steve Pike and Wes Brown. After a long conversation which included some heavy encouragement (especially in Wes’ case who openly admitted he was terrified of surfing here in South Africa due to all the frequent shark attacks), these surfers, notorious for despising sharks actually agreed to join me on a shark dive.

Mark and Gail Addison stepped up and funded our little adventure (so incredibly generous of them - as always anything to save the sharks.) So, we met early Saturday morning, freediving equipment in tow, to get these guys into the water with what was one of their biggest enemies – the monsters of their nightmares. A boat full of surfers (11 in total all big, strong stock including my incredible new friend Olivia Jones) and little old me – a tiny Shark Angel.

The mood to the dive site was somber and quiet – and many questions were asked which entailed things like “What do I do if the shark tries to bite me?” and “What if my fin touches the chum?” and the prodding jokes to one another about wills and Jaws.

When we finally found sharks, of course, I couldn’t get into the water fast enough. They, on the other hand, took an inordinate amount of time to put on their fins and mask.

Finally, all six guys joined me and my friends, 15 beautiful black tips, in the water. The black tips were frisky, and the vis was gorgeous – a perfect day for freediving. Suddenly I found myself tightly surrounded by six nervous guys who were practically climbing on me to get out of the water. I couldn’t move. Funny they thought this little shark angel could offer them any protection… and from what?

Then, I watched something I still cannot describe and still puts a huge smile on my face and warms my heart every time I think of it. Within 30 seconds, the fear dissolved into amazement and the misperceptions melted away as every single guy bolted down to 15 feet to get closer to the sharks they so desperately wanted to touch… I couldn’t figure out where everyone went, until I looked down and saw massive chaos as they flitted from shark to shark trying to get as close as possible.

In Wes’ case, I was even prouder - and more touched. Here was a guy who I couldn’t convince to give sharks a chance. Now, he was lovingly stroking them, and we literally had to pull him – and actually all of them - out of the water.

The enthusiasm and just the raw emotion of the event was contagious. I beamed with pride as the newly inducted Shark Savers were passionately describing their experiences and how much they regretted ever spending time worrying about a shark attack. They couldn’t stop telling everyone they saw about their incredible day – and I knew that we had, together, in some small way, made a little bigger dent in the problem.

Those of us who dive with sharks frequently still revel in the magical experience, but I think we forget what it is like the first time you realize here is something you have been taught to fear all your life, and instead of wanting to eat you, it is just the perfect, awe-inspiring creature. That moment that perception shifts is one of the most precious things a shark conservationist can witness.

I am so excited to continue working with the surfing community – with Ross, Steve, OJ and Wes – and gain even more surfers' collective support for sharks. Almost as excited as I am to get into the water with them as they transform me from a Shark Angel into a Surf Angel. Yes, after sharing sharks with them, turn around is fair play, and they want to share another perspective on the ocean with me. And I cannot wait.

Read about the adventure from the surfers' point of view on the Wavescapes site:

The Raggies Return!!!

I recently crossed the Botswana border back into South Africa and got a new visa! I am fully legit until the beginning of November now. It was like Christmas morning for me.

As with any plans in Africa, everything has changed once again. Now I am headed off to stay near Aliwal Shoal (Durban) with Mark and Gail Addison in preparation for the Shark Angels premier on July 31st.

I am moving part-time to the Durban area as well… While I love Capetown, the brutal cold rains and overcast skies that are their winter are absolutely killing me. Here I sit, tanned and warm from days in Botswana and I simply cannot face going home. Plus, who are we kidding… a chance to hang out with and live with some of my favorite people (including their darling daughter who is 6 going on 36 named Ella), how can I possibly head back to Capetown now?

When Mark told me that the Raggies are back in full force, with numbers that are not to be believed, I was so excited. More than 1oo were in Cathedral, piled three and four sharks deep After years of staying away, the Ragged Tooth Sharks are finally back! (We call them Sand Tigers in the states.)

Before heading off to Sodwana, we did an amazing (and quite unusual) night dive with the Raggies. Usually skittish, at night, they literally brush up against you, seemingly desperate for contact. I couldn’t believe the change in behavior versus the dive I had done a few days prior, when I couldn’t get within five feet without them slapping their tails like a shot and bolting off. Raggies are one of my favorite sharks, graceful and misunderstood, with a mouth full of vicious looking, snaggled teeth, they are definitely more bark than bite. A little like a Shark Angel, I think…

So our first dive with the Raggies was a stunning experience. Imagine 100 - 200 aggregating like the hammerheads of Cocos. I was thrilled. Mark said he has never seen so many together - and after years of concern, they have returned in healthy full force. Today, I felt like I witnessed a little natural miracle, which came at such a perfect time, as I was haunted by a story from Shawn about the 12 longliners that are being chased off every dive site in Cocos. Seeing the sharks in such full force gave me the shot in the arm I needed to continue charging forward to save the sharks. Sometimes it seems like such a daunting task...

Diving with the Crocodiles... Reptile Angel

I have just returned from the most amazing place on earth… The Okavango Delta in Botswana. I headed to the Delta for a real bush adventure, with my dear and most incredibly adventurous friends Gail and Mark Addison. The goal? To dive with the infamous crocodiles of the delta, yes, free of any cages. I know what you are thinking… Shark Girl is now truly insane. Maybe I even thought that a bit, before heading on the trip. But, I have always been obsessed with the Delta – and crocodiles. Let’s be honest, they scare the crap out of me. So, I thought what better way to conquer that fear?


I became one of the first people to do just that. I met a group heading to Botswana from Johannesburg. An incredible group of Brits with a Scot mixed in for good measure. We drove from Johannesburg to Maun, Botswana, and then jumped on boats for the rest of our trek. The boat ride was gorgeous as we whisked through a snaking river flanked by tall reeds and grasses and often, elephants, hippos, impalas and countless birds awaiting us around a bend. Eight hours later, with our camping and dive gear in tow, we arrived at a little island that we would call home for the next week.

Sodwana certainly was a step in the right direction, but nothing could have truly prepared me for the way we were about to spend the week. After leaving all my electronics behind (quite hesitantly I might add – I have not left my cell phone or computer behind in the last 12 years), I discovered that we were truly old-school camping. I had a tent doled out to me, a small lantern, and a bed roll and was told to make my home. The toilet was a hole in the back of the camp with a seat placed precariously over it, and our water came from the frigid river. My eyes were wide when I began imagining the bugs that I was about to come in contact with – not to mention the animals. Turns out, as the flood waters raise the water levels, the animals become “trapped” on their islands. Our island had hippos in our backyard, elephants, lions, hyenas, and buffalo – not to mention crocs.

Now I have been on safari before, but typically, there is quite a bit separating you from the wildlife. Not here – and not on an adventure with the Addisons! Hippos walked past our tents at night, hyenas sat in our camp, and elephants meandered by. The first night was torture, me in my little tent by myself whimpering and shaking with every noise. I was convinced a lion was outside waiting to rip me to shreds… or a hippo preparing to charge… or a hungry hyena with ten of his friends… How could this possibly be safe?!?! There were roars of three different lion prides that night, deep bellows of angry hippos pissed that we were sleeping in their grazing areas, and the sounds of elephants splashing about, calling to each other so closely, I thought they were actually in my tent. I was amazed and horrified all at once! I learned to love the sounds of the bush after that, but it definitely took a bit of getting used to.



Diving the Okavango Delta was something I may never forget – or be able to describe. The flood waters were rising by the minute, so we were able to explore beautiful underwater cathedrals woven of reeds of every shape and size, fanning papyrus, water lilies and about 100 other species of beautiful underwater plants and grasses. Stripped, dotted and mottle fish of every shape and size darted through the reeds, which were sometimes a kilometer or two thick. The water was crystal clear and shallow enough that the red plants glistened brightly and vibrantly, offset by the beautiful, fine white sand, silver fish and green grasses. Even though it was frigid, we spent hours free-diving, completely captivated with the thought we were exploring a place so few people would dare to venture – and one that was truly a natural work of art.


Although we tried hard to find the crocodiles underwater, they were masters at camouflage. So, while I dove in waters full of ten to sixteen foot crocodiles, I never saw a single one underwater - but I knew they were there as they slunk into the water right before I got in. I did however, see something underwater that would make most Africans’ hearts stop. Hippos. We unintentionally dove so closely to them that we actually bumped into one, giving him quite a fright. Now, while hippos seem like huge cows, they are actually responsible for more deaths than crocodiles and sharks combined. They can be extremely territorial, unpredictable and vicious. So, the last thing we wanted to meet underwater was the animal we met on countless occasions.


At one point, I came to the surface to get my bearings – having recently lost the entire group by accidentally diverting down a narrow hippo path that opened into a huge hippo pool, determined to not make that mistake again – to find a boat full of tourists eagerly snapping my picture, amazed at the crazy girl diving in what are perceived as some of the most dangerous waters in the world. Most certainly I made at least five different trip albums, imagining the tales they would tell their friends about the horned creature that was defying all logic and reason!

I did, however, have quite a fright when I woke up one day with my thigh throbbing. My lymph node was completely swollen. Turns out I had a rotting wound on the back of my heel, blood poisoning, and tick bite fever from Sodwana (I KNEW IT PAUL!). I received a good dose of bush medicine as the wound was cleaned and the flesh removed with a huge thorn from an Acacia tree while Gail (who I am so lucky to call my friend, especially now) held me down writhing in pain. Thank goodness someone had a strong dose of Cipro for me. I had wondered why I had splitting headaches and a fever for three days prior… but, that certainly didn’t keep me from diving.


Our time out of the water was just as magical. We would spend hours gliding through many different areas of the river, each with its own distinctive and equally beautiful vegetation. And, even better, we would stop at islands and hike, only feet away from the animals. Mother elephants and babies, giraffes, impalas, bush buck, hippos, buffalo, wart hogs, baboons… the list goes on and on. On foot, without any sort of protection other than our incredible guide, Eron, a river bushman who carried a spear that I was desperate for since my arrival at Maun, we were able to experience the true Africa only feet away – something I will always treasure. One day, we hiked with elephants, the next, we watched an impala leap for what seemed like hours through water deeper than his body in an incredible spectacle. Another day I was inches from a giraffe, another day was surrounded by a pack of warthogs, one of whom I had quite a tender moment with which involved kisses, and our final thrill? Tracking a pride of lions into a swampy marsh only to have the impressive and beautiful hungry, horny male lion charge us – an image burned into my mind forever. One minute he was roaring at us from 150 feet away, the next he was racing towards us only stopping at twenty feet with me in front, as I was capturing all the topside video this trip. A few lessons learned: never run when a lion charges even though it scares you to the bone. But if a hippo or elephant start charging, run like hell.

I began loving eating under the stars, falling asleep to the hippos calling to one another (probably strategizing how they would all surround my tent later and crush me to death), using the “bathroom” knowing an elephant was splashing feet away, and waking up to the screaming fish eagles. Oh, and being dirty. Yes, it was great to take some time away from washing, caring about the way I looked, using pesky hair dryers and makeup, or even looking in the mirror a single time for an entire week!

I am and will forever be Bush Barbie now. (See more pictures...)

Sardines!

The primary reason I initially decided to come back to Africa – though it has clearly been pulling me back for months – has finally arrived! It is SARDINE RUN time! Once a year, the Sardines move down the coast of South Africa as the water temperatures change, and with them comes an amazing display of predators and action. Diving gannets, humpback and bride whales, dolphins by the thousands, sharks by the hundreds and of course shoals and shoals of glistening sardines.

The past few years, the sardines haven’t "run", and the diving has been lackluster at best. But this year, early reports indicate the sardines will be plentiful and the run promises to be an incredible display.

Unfortunately, as it always seems to happen when I am in South Africa, I managed to plan a trip during a time in which they have a weather first. A few months ago when diving with the white sharks, it was winds and swells like they had never seen before. This time around, it was a flash flood. As luck would have it, the day we were set to arrive in Durban, they received an unpredicted downpour that resulted in rivers overflowing and destroying bridges and consuming highways, houses sliding down hills into the oceans, and even a plane sliding off the runway.

Now, I am a relatively tough chick and am happy (or at least begrudging at best) to dive in the rain. But what this did was far worse then a bit of inconvenience on the boat for our first few days on the run. It turned the water into a murky, mixed up chocolate syrup with no visibility and the massive amount of debris in the water combined with the destruction closed launch sites for days. But as always, we made the most of it.

Jamie and I were diving with my dear friends, Mark and Gail Addison, who run Blue Wilderness. Mark and Gail are incredibly passionate and committed to conservation, and protecting all things cherished about this planet. They are some of the most kind, generous people I have ever met, and the most knowledgeable operators - I mean, they started Sardine Run.

And, much to our delight, Jamie and I were also with a wonderful group of people. First, there was Pam, our skipper and the sweetest person you could ever hope to meet. What’s more, this was a rugged and brilliant chick, who ran her own dive tour operation while getting her Marine Biology degree. She is the type of person I wished I had grown up to become! Then, there was Mark and Sophia – a delightful couple whose passion for each other was just as strong as their passion for adventure. She had been a news photographer for years, frequently finding herself in the middle of riots and shootings. Mark is a surfer that makes boards and a professional photographer in his own right. The two of them were so funny and such a joy to be around, I just simply couldn’t get enough of them. And as luck would have it, they are best friends with my new housemate Renier, so I am going to have a chance to spend much time with them in my days to come in Capetown. They are the type of couple that gives me hope - and the type that everyone just wants to be around.

Then, there was Paul, who ran a production company in Malaysia and was soon to become my first shooter for my gig with the Underwater channel. Paul and I instantly gravitated towards one another, I suppose because we both were in similar sibling situations growing up. Paul took care of both Jamie and I, while at the same time, tormented me with all sorts of brotherly antics – which of course I loved. Finally, there was Mike, a freediver and another cinematographer/production company owner from South Africa, who was there doing a piece for Japanese television. Mike is one of those guys you used to invent when you were an 11 year old girl dreaming of the boyfriend you would invariably have when you were 20 and of course also famous and rich beyond your wildest dreams at that point... handsome, tall, athletic, funny, smart, successful, and kind. But, more importantly, (and really all that mattered to me...) Mike and I were cut out of the same cloth; we even both run Shark Conservation organizations. So, of course I couldn’t get enough of him, spending hours talking about sharks… (and yes just a few other things as well!)

The first few days, we were not able to launch, so we explored an aquarium, went horseback riding on the beach (I am the typical chick who grew up LOVING horses), discovered Port Edward and had a ball getting to know each other. Then, finally, it came time to do what we were there for – find some Sardine action!
The Sardine Run is like no other dive adventure I have been on. You literally spend hours looking for action, suited up in your wet suit on a small panga zooming around the ocean with a microlite above cluing you in on the action. It was brief and few and far in between, but when you got action, it made it all worthwhile. One day, we spent the day dropping in and freediving with pods of common nose and spinner dolphins who numbered in the thousands. It was such an amazing site to hang at fifteen feet and have dolphins whiz by you as far as the eye could see, like walking through Grand Central Station during rush hour… Another day we found the Humpbacks and I had a magical experience when two headed straight for me and I got up close and personal with some of the most majestic creatures on the planet. I was so close, I was pulled into the current they created with their enormous, barnacled bodies that glided effortlessly by.


The diving gannets were a sight to see. Beautiful above water, they turned into monstrous looking things as they pierced the surface and dove down twenty feet for a sardine. One took a liking to Jamie’s wetsuit and began incessantly attacking her arm. I nearly drowned laughing so hard.

Finally, Mother Nature delivered our bait ball. A swarming mass of sardines, encircled by dozens of bronze whaler and black tip sharks that were darting in and out of the school, flanked by dolphins whose piercing calls I could hear through my hood. Everywhere I turned there was action – even gannets diving in from above. It was hectic – and even a bit disconcerting when I found myself in the middle of it all. Sharks with their open mouths brushing my legs and zooming past my mask – spending much of their time hidden closely next to me in my blind spot. I remembered my friend Shawn’s words of caution but rather than moving away from the action, in typical Julie style, I was drawn to the middle of it! It was quite singularly one of the most incredible things I have ever experienced. I am desperate to return. And to see all my new friends again, who on this trip, all turned into family.

(Thanks to Pam, Jamie and Sophia for the great pictures...)

More photos of the African adventure.